Chanel and Armani Infuse optimism into Haute Couture while Balenciaga pays tribute and finds a new footing through Cristobal’s legacy. Senior Editor James R. Sanders reports.
Haute Couture, like every facet of fashion has changed. But there’s hope; at least, the houses of Chanel, Armani Prive, and Balenciaga think so. If their individual collections are any indication, I agree.
From a collection that debuted today and was the first from the house in 53 years, to a beautifully stitched showing from an iconic designer who took a horrible fall — even a fantasy-driven effortless collection of IT girl clothes; the showings in Paris marry hope and resilience.
Balenciaga’s Return and Homage to Cristobal
It’s been 53 years since Balenciaga had a couture show. Back then, fashion master Cristobal Balenciaga ruled and was admired by many.
Today’s show at 10, Avenue Georges V is a big deal — a very big deal. As for designer Demna Gvasalia, it was even more important.
Silence was necessary because in order to pay tribute to who Gabrielle Chanel called, “the greatest of us all,” the show needed to acknowledge the moment.
“It was my minute of silence to the heritage of Cristobal Balenciaga, but also a moment of silence to just shut up for a minute” he said.
Tailoring, taffeta, and tall girls took the day. The Cristobal influence was there because it needed to be. But more than that, the designer, who started Vetements in 2014 kept to his strengths of heritage and technical design, creating a beautiful collection.
Separates make it consumer-friendly, but the evening garments weren’t left behind. Expensive textiles were worked and reworked to celebrate the subdued and controlled elements of couture.
Gvasalia is easily put into an athleisure streetwear tribe of new designers, but here, he proves that he can move in both circles with the new kids and the vets.
Chanel’s Optimism
Paris in the 1930s, what a glorious time. We’ve read enough memoir and vintage columns from society papers to know that during this time, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel was the IT girl.
Her appearances in photos, and at all the best parties showed her outlook on life through her wardrobe. The casual elegance that killed the uncompromising uncomfortable couture of the past only solidified Chanel’s position in fashion — a position that hasn’t been taken since.
This, then is the inspiration for Virginie Viard’s haute couture offering.
The designer combed through archived images of Gabrielle and then created an idealistic updated version of what would have been — all the rage.
Signature tweeds were to be expected, and they were beautifully executed as usual, but the optimism in this collection was most surprising. Viard thinks of fashion through an idealistic lens even during (and after — almost), a pandemic. The flounced drop-waist garments were breath-taking.
The bride, a clean, affectionate garden girl who, like Gabrielle, believes — less is more.
Armani Shines Bright Like a Diamond
Mr. Armani took a fall recently, but even in his 80s, the designer’s bounce-back is stronger than his contemporaries. And speaking of bouncing, this collection does just that — against the light. With iridescent silks, the Armani Prive collection was a light show.
There’s a brightness to the Armani collection that speaks to the time. Mr. Armani didn’t say that the collection was inspired by the angst of the pandemic, but rather, a new promise he’s made to himself to be more forthright about his emotions. Afterall, time isn’t promised to anyone — and the designer is pushing fashion into a direction of bold honesty.
Armani told a consistent story throughout his collection even though he included about 15 looks from his previous presentation. The reason, he says, is for those who attended this show to fully experience the fashion. Mr. Armani — as dashing as ever, breathes the old school way of presenting fashion that many of us celebrate — though not as often as we would like.