Black women have been the driving force in fashion and beauty for centuries in America.
Many of the trends seen on the pages of fashion magazines were introduced through Black culture — more specifically, Black women. Although we may not get the credit we deserve, it is apparent when you look at the scope of fashion, beauty and street style.
Black women have a big influence on the culture.
With the rise of the cotton industry, the slave trade was born and forceful tactics were used to bring enslaved humans from the continent of Africa to the Americas.
Slaves would spend grueling hours picking cotton and Black women were made seamstresses or dressmakers for the plantation owner and their families. From slavery came the cotton industry which birthed the fashion industry in America.
After slavery, dressmaking and seamstress work turned into equitable job opportunities for Black women.
An example of that is the story of Elizabeth Keckley, a former slave who became the dressmaker of Mary Todd Lincoln, First Lady and Abraham Lincoln’s wife.
Born in 1818 in Virginia, Elizabeth Keckley was born into slavery and was owned by her father and plantation owner Colonel Armistead Burwell. Growing up Elizabeth would assist her mother, Agnes (Aggy) Hobbs, with the domestic work including sewing for the family which was a skill she was taught by her mother.
When Elizabeth was 14 years old she was sent to North Carolina to work for Burwell’s son and his new wife. When she returned during 1842, she continued to serve the Burwell family even though Armistead Burwell was deceased. She instead worked for Mary Burwell, Armistead’s wife, her daughter and her son in law Hugh A. Garland. It was during this time that she found out that the family was filing for bankruptcy.
Initially, they wanted to hire out Aggy but Elizabeth protested due to her mother’ old age and instead suggested she use her dressmaking skills to earn the family more income. Soon enough, Elizabeth would take dress orders from wealthy women in St. Louis. After working twelve years as a successful business woman and dressmaker, Elizabeth soon met Mary Lincoln.
On November 13, 1855, Elizabeth was able to raise 1,200 dollars and was able to pay her debt to the Burwell family to become a freed woman. In 1860, she traveled to Washington D.C to continue her successful career as a dressmaker for Mary Lincoln. During this time Elizabeth also worked with other socialites and politicians in Washington including Varina Davis, wife of Mississippi Senator and future Confederate President Jefferson Davis.
Even after slavery, Black women continued to have a great influence on fashion through their creativity and skills as dressmakers and designers. Unfortunately, Black women are not always credited for their work or contribution to the fashion industry.
There are many examples that could be told but one that always stands out is Ann Lowe, an American designer and the first noted Black designer in America. Ann Lowe was born into a family of seamstresses and designers, so it’s no surprise that Ann Lowe would go on to become such a legendary designer herself.
When Lowe was only sixteen years old, she completed an order for a high profile client after her mother passed away suddenly and had to complete the job. This started her career as a designer and in 1917, she moved to New York City to begin her studies in sewing courses. By 1928, she had permanently moved to New York to jump start her career in the big city.
Ann Lowe became famous for her one of a kind designs, especially among the wealthy and elite in American society. Lowe specialized in creating gowns featuring fine fabrics and handiwork, often evoking floral motifs. From debutante balls to wedding gowns, Lowe’s work was worn by the who’s who in the upper class society. By 1950, she had opened her own boutique called “Anne Lowe’s Gowns” in New York City.
After much success in creating beautiful gowns for the elite, in 1953, Ann Lowe was chosen as the designer to create the bridal party wardrobe for Jacqueline Bouvier’s wedding to senator John F. Kennedy. Unfortunately, ten days before the wedding there was a flood in Lowe’s studio ruining two months worth of work Lowe dedicated to the wedding. This mishap did not stop Ann Lowe, instead she recruited a team to reconstruct all of the gowns and absorbed all costs. Even though the wedding dress received lots of publicity and high praise, Ann Lowe did not receive the credit she deserved and instead was credited as “a colored dressmaker.”
This opportunity could have helped bring in more clientele and even help with the cost of the flood days before. Now, Ann Lowe is celebrated for her contributions to fashion and pioneering African American couturiers.
Another unsung hero in fashion is Ruby Bailey. She was a Harlem based artist and fashion designer. Born in Bermuda in 1905 and arrived in the United States in 1912, Bailey was instantly known for her flamboyant personality and her equally expressive style. Ruby Bailey was often associated with Harlem as she was a socialite and fashion influencer in the community that participated in art exhibits and fashion shows. During those outings in the Harlem social scene, she was often seen in her own designs.
Her wardrobe was so unique and different from the pack that she has been covered in The “Amsterdam News” and the “New York Age,” which started her fashion design career. Even though African Americans were not permitted access to mainstream clothing and other retail establishments at that time, it did not stop Bailey from designing her creations.
Bailey created Barbie-esque figures dressed in beaded gowns, leather suits, fur coats, and African clothing. They also featured Afrocentric hairstyles such as afros and cornrows, which help highlight and celebrate black hair in a way that was not represented before.
Even the surrogacy of Hip Hop and streetwear can be thanks to Black women. Bamboo earrings, oversized jean jackets and box braids were all trends started by Black women in the 80’s and 90’s. When you see the style of women wearing the tomboy chic look which includes baggy clothing, sneakers and trendy sportswear, you can thank Black women like Aaliyah, TLC, SWV and every girl from the hood for those looks.
Let’s not forget about the Black woman who was behind some of your favorite streetwear clothing brands and Hip Hop fashion moments.
During the 90’s, April Walker, who is the founder of Walker Wear, was a pioneer for urban street wear and helped make it the multi billion dollar industry it is today.
In 1987, April Walker started her own clothing brand called Fashion in Effect and by the next year was able to open a storefront on Green Avenue in Brooklyn. NY. By the 1990’s, Walker moved on to start her clothing brand, Walker Wear which led her to work with Hip Hop icons such as Biggie Smalls, Snoop Dogg, Tupac Shakur and so many more. Being the first woman to dominate the streetwear industry, April Walker is a true trailblazer and created a path for other women to create their own legacy in Hip Hop.
April Walker isn’t the only woman to dominate the fashion game in Hip Hop during the 90’s.
Misa Hylton is the stylist behind the most iconic hip hop looks of the 90’s and early 2000’s. Hylton not only gave Jodeci their signature bad boy look they’re known for but she is also the genius who helped secure Lil Kim as the fashion icon she is now.
June Ambrose is another powerhouse who definitely deserves her flowers. Not only is she responsible for the costumes for the Hip Hop cult classic “Belly” but she also created culture -shifting moments through fashion and music from Janet Jackson’s & Busta Rhymes “What It’s Gonna Be” to Missy Elliot’s “The Rain (Supa Dupa Fly). June Ambrose used her talents to create some of the most iconic moments in pop culture which later became fashion trends everyone wears now. Plus, June Ambrose’s contributions made it possible for Hip Hop stars to have collaboration deals with big fashion brands, through her work with Missy Elliot and Adidas.
From cornrows to stiletto nails, Black women have also shaped the beauty industry as well. Thanks to Black women such as Madam C.J walker, a beauty entrepreneur from the late 19th Century who became the first self made female millionaire or Beverly Johnson who was not only a successful model but beauty entrepreneur as well.
In August 1974, Johnson became the first African-American model to cover Vogue. This led to designers using African American models more often, changing the scope of what ideal beauty is. Other notable change makers in beauty include Tracey Africa Norman who became the first Black Trans woman in 1975 when she became the face of hair brand Clairol №512 hair dye and Pat McGrath who is a world renowned makeup artist who have been influencing beauty trends in fashion for two decades. These women allow other women like Jackie Aina, Rihanna and Laverne Cox to be the beauty powerhouses they’re now.
Black women are the backbone to fashion and beauty and should be credited with all they have given to the industry. So, when you see influencers rocking script necklaces or hoop earrings just know it wasn’t Carrie Bradshaw who started that trend it was a Black woman.